A Day of Blessing

Sunday gave me a very unique opportunity to attend one of the core celebrations in the Maasai culture, the Circumcision Blessing Ceremony. This event in a Maasai boy’s life is much talked about and anticipated, since it happens only every 5-10 years. This is the time when “age sets” – important lifelong groupings – begin, each with their own leaders who have been selected by the community elders.

A hollowed out gazelle antler provides a haunting sound

A few hundred boys and young men from Longido, Kimokouwa, and Namanga villages spent Saturday preparing, including sleeping overnight in the forest. They decorated their faces and bodies with a “reddish paint” made from special soil found near Arusha and mixed with animal fat.  Lion shaped masks were fashioned from hide, ostrich feathers, and colourful beads. Hundreds of family members and friends began gathering about 10 a.m. Sunday at a boma chosen to host the event in Kimokouwa. Many TEMBO staff also attended. Long time TEMBO friend, Baraka Mark David, currently working for Maasai Radio, was also present to document the event.

This day was particularly celebrative because TEMBO staff member, Mary Laiser’s two young sons were taking part. Victor, the younger, seemed to look forward to the ceremony while Hopeson had very mixed feelings – right until the ceremony ended. It’s indicative of modernization reaching far into the heart of Maasai beliefs and culture.

Mary with sons, Hopeson and Victor, and community elders

  

This is a time of great transition in the Maasai community. Difficult questions are being asked and important decisions are being made about how to move forward into the future. What does a culture let go of and what does it keep? How is being “Maasai” truly defined? These are not easy questions and organizations, including TEMBO, are working within the community and schools to help with the search for clarity.

This was brought home to me with such force at the very end of the day. After all the dancing and socializing and feasting on roasted “cow” meat, the candidates gathered in a setting among acacia trees sitting cross-legged and listening intently while the elders spoke to them. The elders had deliberated long to find a leader and an assistant leader for this new age set they named iltubula, a Maasai word for growth or growing. The name was called out and the first young man, clearly shaken, was led to the front by two others. Then a second name was called out and a Form II boy from Longido Secondary School was assisted to the front of the large gathering.

Many elders attended the ceremony and each in turn spoke to the boys

 

The two were surrounded by all the elders who chanted and prayed for the new young leaders. One arm from each of them was propelled into the air and given support. The leader held a traditional power stick. The assistant leader held something that appeared quite odd until an explanation was given. It was a blue and white stripped pen.

The Maasai future includes both preserving culture and becoming educated

In days past, courage was displayed by the young men going into the forest and remaining until a lion had been killed and the evidence returned. This often took up to three months. In these new times courage would be displayed by the boys remaining in school and getting an education. Thus, the symbol of the pen, in all of its simplicity and all of its rich meaning.

TEMBO Trust askaris (watchmen) Oyaya, second from the left and Sanjoy, third from the right

Everyone proceeded inside of the large boma, walking through two lines of chanting mothers who would also receive a special blessing this day. The boys and the women sat in long rows, separated just enough for the leaders to walk up and down, chanting and sprinkling a mixture of milk, honey, water and herbs on those seated. The blessing now given, the families would choose their own time for the actual circumcision. Now the boys had a place in Maasai society.

I left feeling quite humbled and very priviledged to have been invited to witness such a significant time of passage. While cultural traditions may change over time the central place of rituals filled with rich meaning will always have a place.